How can so many French men and women—statistically speaking, of course—eat all that stinky cheese and goose liver without all the heart attacks of our odor-free, foie-free American ecosystem? The answer has to be… Vin rouge!
We’ve now traveled by sleeper coach train through every major west European country except Spain (including our own version of the Orient Express), and it’s uncanny how the experience has reflected the culture of the train’s country of origin. The French coach was dignified and correct, if a bit […]
For what it’s worth, our rules for eating out in Italy (unless you’re desperate, of course).
A detail from the Roman victory column, Columna Centenaria Divorum Marci et Faustinae, shows how bloody and gruesome most Roman victories were. This particular structure, from AD 193, honors the old sage and Emperor Marco Aurelio (bearded and dispensing wisdom at top left) for his assiduous repression of […]
13 photos of street musicians, professionals, and contestants strutting their musical stuff on two continents.
The word “ghetto” might have been the name of a pair of foul-smelling foundries located in the outer reaches of Cannaregio, a key Sestiere, or district, of Venice. When the Doge Leonardo Loredan and the Serenissima exiled their 700 Jews there on 29 March, 1516, the moniker stuck. From […]
My favorite lame travel joke used to be: “If it’s Tuesday, this must be Belgium.” On the current voyage, the new one is: “If you’ve seen one Acropolis, you’ve seen ’em all.” Except… The Greek word technically refers to the summit of a hill, with or without a […]
There was a time when the mask business in Venice was more than just a quirky feature of the tourist trade. No one really knows if the original intent was political (for anonymous voting) or social (to disguise your class and identity). But by the 12th century, both […]
Our coolest photo shoot ever took us to the Fantiscritti marble fields in the hills above Carrara, in Tuscan Italy, in search of the hole the quarrymen left in 1464 when cutting out the marble for Michelangelo’s David. Within minutes, we were soaked to the bone by the […]
Back when we used to make a regular run from Lugano in Switzerland south to Milan, this obscure commune was a compulsory stop, if only to check out these two dudes atop the first church on the way into town. The Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of the […]
To anyone who has seen the inside of an Italian slum, the Neapolitan Commune of Boscotrecase, on the southern slope of Mt. Vesuvius, breathes organized crime. For years, public services have been, in effect, privatized to the Camorra, who have dumped millions of tons of industrial waste anywhere […]