Rijsstaffel

One of my favorite childhood meals used to come when the family crossed the Dutch border to the town of Bergen op Zoom for Indonesian Rijsstaffel. An ancient (at least to my 12-year-old eyes) Dutch ex-colonial couple had taken over a manor house and turned it into a restaurant. Bowls of aromatic […]

Waterloo

It was the bloodthirsty celebrity matchup the world had been waiting for. Not until El Alamein in 1942 would the world see a more anticipated and personalized battle than Waterloo. That earlier conflict, on 18 June, 1815, pitted the invincible French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte against Arthur Wellesley, the brilliant […]

Yorktown

Of all the battlefields we’ve photographed, from Austerlitz in the Czech Republic westward to San Pasqual in California, Yorktown was the most beautiful and, oddly enough, the most pacific. It didn’t hurt that we arrived at dawn on a perfect winter day and had the place to ourselves; […]

Dinant

Here we help the city of Dinant celebrate the birth of its favorite son Adolphe Saxe, who first patented the saxophone on 28 June, 1846. The Belgian musician was a human catastrophe who survived falls, poisoning, drowning, burning, explosions, two bankruptcies, and—most tellingly—lip cancer, only to die in abject poverty […]

Death Valley

Our first encounter with an American desert came in driving Interstate 15 north from Los Angeles to Las Vegas through the High Mojave. Where we expected to find Lawrence of Arabia waving from atop a sand dune, we instead crossed a moonscape of barren rocks and tumbleweed half-hidden […]

Carrara

Our coolest photo shoot ever took us to the Fantiscritti marble fields in the hills above Carrara, in Tuscan Italy, in search of the hole the quarrymen left in 1464 when cutting out the marble for Michelangelo’s David. Within minutes, we were soaked to the bone by the […]

County Sligo

Just another day in paradise? It would be, especially under this surreal pre-storm atmosphere, except… In Ireland, you can never entirely separate Yeats’ “terrible beauty” from the historical events that for centuries made it such a horror show of British misgovernment. Small farms like this one in County […]