What happens when fifteen million people all rush out at the same time to go shopping in the same impenetrable warren of urban alleys, bazaars, and arcades? That’s what it feels like in the Fatih District of Istanbul around five o’clock on a holiday eve.
For someone brought up on Christian churches, East or West, Orthodox, Roman Catholic, or Protestant, the simplicity of the great Islamic mosques of Istanbul can be both over- and underwhelming. We’re reminded of a church across Market Street in San Francisco, where the saints’ statues crowd the aisles […]
The political classes are forever looking for symbols to crystalize their support and distract from the failure of their policies. No symbol has remained more potent, persistent, and maybe ridiculous than the headscarf. We would dismiss the entire brouhaha, if it wasn’t for Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, one of […]